Sézanne

At Sézanne, Tokyo’s habit of taking foreign forms and refining them to an almost alarming degree reaches the dining room. On the seventh floor of Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, the restaurant pairs modern French cooking with Japanese seasonality, which explains why the menu can move from pristine seafood to sharply tuned sauces and desserts with classical restraint. The room, designed by André Fu, is calm, creamy and polished without turning cold, with a show kitchen that gives the meal a quiet sense of theatre. Even the location plays its part: you are in Marunouchi, beside Tokyo Station, in one of the city’s great business districts, yet the atmosphere feels unusually composed.