Osteria Fanal del Codega

Osteria Fanal del Còdega takes its name from one of Venice’s more curious old professions. A còdega was a lantern bearer, hired to escort people through the city after dark, back when the calli were poorly lit and finding your way home could involve more adventure than intended. Public lighting eventually made him redundant, but the name stuck. The restaurant occupies a former spice warehouse, a fitting setting in a city that once grew rich on pepper, cinnamon and cloves. Seafood leads the menu, with raw shellfish, mixed seafood plates and black pasta with cuttlefish ink among the dishes that suit the place particularly well. The cooking is contemporary and polished, but still generous, with enough substance on the plate to keep the osteria spirit intact. There is also a substantial steak for anyone in the mood to briefly step away from the lagoon. The experience becomes even more memorable outside. A small row of tables sits directly beside the canal, framed by brick façades and a little stone bridge. Boats pass at almost eye level and, after dark, the reflections in the water add another layer to an already appealing dinner. It feels unmistakably Venetian, with the food and setting working together rather than competing for attention.