Felice a Testaccio

In Testaccio, far from the selfie parade of central Rome, Felice a Testaccio has held its ground since 1936. Founded by Felice Trivelloni and still in family hands, it occupies a dining room of starched cloths, warm wood and the steady murmur of regulars who know exactly why they are here. The ritual arrives with the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, tossed at your table to a glossy perfection that borders on theater. In a city fluent in excess, Felice practices discipline, and that restraint tastes magnificent.