Yoshino

Tadashi Yoshida had an enviable reputation in Nagoya when he decided to close his restaurant and start again in New York. His new home on the Bowery has just ten seats, all facing the chef, who seems to enjoy his audience almost as much as his cooking.

Yoshino's counter is cut from a Kiso cypress tree more than 300 years old, its timber seasoned for another fifty before being installed here. Green earthen plaster, a coffered cypress ceiling and chairs handmade in Gifu, where Yoshida grew up, give the room its warmth. Jazz plays softly as he works within arm’s reach, wielding knives forged especially for him by a craftsman in Saga.

The omakase opens with seasonal *otsumami*: perhaps sweet hairy crab with the briny richness of sea urchin and caviar, or tender firefly squid paired with white asparagus and the citrusy tingle of sansho pepper. Then comes Edomae nigiri, from delicate gizzard shad to richly marbled tuna belly, each piece balanced against rice seasoned with three vinegars.

Yoshida’s signature pressed mackerel brings a change of pace. He sears the fish over glowing binchotan charcoal, its skin sizzling as he hums a tune inspired by Super Mario. His way, apparently, of putting nervous guests at ease. New York has influenced his cooking, too. A sizzling sea urchin dish borrows ideas from Korean bibimbap and cheese fondue, while caramelised *tamago* takes its inspiration from New York cheesecake. Yoshida clearly enjoys experimenting, even after decades spent perfecting his craft.

Allow around two and a half hours and prepare for a substantial bill. For a meal that demands such concentration in the kitchen, it is remarkably good fun.