Wing

On the 29th floor of The Wellington in Central, Wing feels like Hong Kong fine dining with its collar unbuttoned by exactly one button. Chef owner Vicky Cheng opened it in 2021 as the Chinese counterpart to VEA upstairs, drawing on the eight great regional Chinese cuisines while filtering them through French technique and a very sharp sense of precision. The result can be gloriously specific: dry aged crispy chicken that reportedly took more than 80 trials to perfect, smoked pigeon with sugarcane, and dishes built around ingredients such as fish maw and sea cucumber without a hint of museum glass about them. The room adds polish rather than theatre, with an elegant, contemporary setting high above Central and even a harbour facing terrace for private dining. It is a destination dinner for people who enjoy craft, ambition and the pleasure of seeing Chinese cuisine pushed forward with discipline and appetite.