Txikito

In a city where restaurant trends often have the lifespan of a New York parking ticket, Txikito has been quietly filling tables since 2008. The Chelsea restaurant takes its name from the Basque word for “little one”, though there is nothing particularly small about its reputation among chefs, food writers and regulars who return with remarkable frequency.

The people behind it are husband and wife team Alex Raij and Eder Montero. Before Basque cuisine became fashionable far beyond Spain, they were already introducing New Yorkers to the flavours of Bilbao, San Sebastián and the fishing towns along the Bay of Biscay. Nearly two decades later, they still do it with the same conviction.

Inside, the room feels comfortably lived in. Wood panelling, tiled walls and a bustling bar give it the atmosphere of a neighbourhood restaurant that has found exactly what it wants to be. On warm evenings, the front opens onto Ninth Avenue and conversations spill gently into the street.

The Basque Country is home to one of the world's greatest food cultures, yet Txikito focuses on the dishes people actually crave. Golden croquetas disappear quickly from tables. Salt cod appears in several forms. Seafood features prominently, reflecting the maritime traditions of northern Spain. Then there is the Txakoli. The lightly sparkling Basque wine arrives poured from high above the glass, a ritual that still causes nearby diners to glance over before returning to their own meal.