Piazza Duomo

Enrico Crippa has made a career out of taking vegetables very seriously. At Piazza Duomo in Alba, his celebrated Insalata 21, 31, 41, 51… can contain more than a hundred different leaves, herbs, flowers and shoots. Its composition changes with the seasons, and the ingredients are arranged in layers, to be eaten from top to bottom, accompanied by a mandarin-scented Japanese dashi. Quite a lot of thought for something called a salad.

Much of this begins outside Alba, in the restaurant's extensive vegetable gardens, where Crippa has been cultivating unusual varieties, including revived heirloom plants, since 2007. Vegetables, flowers and herbs are picked twice daily, while three formative years in Japan continue to influence his precision and approach to ingredients. Piedmont remains equally important. The menus explore the region's culinary traditions, and autumn brings a dedicated celebration of Alba's prized white truffles.

Behind a discreet red door in the historic centre, stairs lead to a dining room painted an unapologetic pink. Francesco Clemente's frescoes cover the walls and ceiling with curious figures, floating parcels and vine leaves. The Ceretto winemaking family, who opened Piazza Duomo with Crippa in 2005, are responsible for bringing contemporary art into the restaurant. White tablecloths and generously spaced tables lend a more formal air to an otherwise wonderfully unconventional room.

Dinner here is an elaborate affair, with tasting menus that deserve an unhurried evening. The extensive wine collection is particularly strong in Piedmontese and French bottles, with themed pairings for those willing to explore. Alba has no shortage of excellent trattorias serving traditional tajarin and vitello tonnato. Piazza Duomo offers a very different encounter with the region, one in which even the smallest leaf might have travelled only a few hours from garden to plate.