Marcel

Marcel Breuer’s old Whitney Museum is a hard building to flirt with: all granite, concrete and stern geometry. Marcel, the restaurant in its lower level, gives it a persuasive opening line. Roman and Williams have left the concrete visible, then brought in walnut panelling, cocoa-coloured mohair and light flattering enough to make you consider another glass of wine. Beyond the dining room lies the sculpture garden. Around you, Sotheby’s displays art and objects that may be for sale. Even the room has expensive tastes.

Chef-partner Marie-Aude Rose, who also oversees the menu at La Mercerie, cooks in a French-leaning Continental register. Think duck confit, cod gratin and a côte de boeuf that requires a willing accomplice. There’s an open kitchen to watch, a mirrored bar worth arriving early for and enough going on in the room to keep your phone in your pocket.

Dinner makes the most of the setting, though Marcel also serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Ask for the garden when outdoor tables are available; stop by the adjoining La Mercerie Pâtisserie when you have time for pastry rather than a long meal. For dinner, book ahead and dress for an evening with options. You came to see a famous building. It would be a shame to rush out of it.