Iwaso

About

Most people visit Miyajima. Guests of Iwaso experience it. That difference only becomes apparent after the last ferry leaves. The crowds disappear, the famous torii gate stands quietly in the bay and the island settles into a rhythm it must have known for centuries. Founded in 1854, when Japan was still emerging from its long period of isolation, Iwaso sits in the wooded Momijidani Valley, a short walk from Itsukushima Shrine. Deer wander through the grounds. A river flows beside the buildings. It is exactly the sort of setting one hopes for when booking a historic ryokan. Curiously, the hotel itself is not what first impresses. The rooms are pleasant and traditional and the onsen enjoyable. The architecture is attractive without being extraordinary. Parts of the property, like the lobby, show their age and could benefit from a thoughtful refresh. Arriving guests may even wonder what all the fuss is about. Then Iwaso begins to work its quiet magic. A young attendant welcomes you into your room and prepares tea. She explains the customs of the ryokan before leaving you to settle in. Later, while you are having dinner, she quietly returns. When you open the door again, the room has changed completely. The low table has disappeared. Futons have been laid out. Somehow, without witnessing any of it, your sitting room has become a bedroom. The experience feels less like hotel service and more like being looked after. Then comes dinner. The kaiseki meal alone justifies staying the night. Course after course showcases the produce of Hiroshima Prefecture and the Seto Inland Sea. Delicate seafood, seasonal vegetables and some of Japan’s finest oysters (do not leave without tasting them!) arrive with quiet confidence. Long after returning home, many guests remember the meal before they remember the room. That may be Iwaso’s greatest achievement. It never tries very hard to impress, yet somehow it does.