INNESS

At INNESS, the Persian rugs look as though they have survived several generations, the furniture rarely matches, and enormous branches spill out of old earthenware pots. All of which takes some doing when the place only opened in 2021.

The man behind it is Taavo Somer, who previously brought a similarly distinctive aesthetic to New York's celebrated Freemans restaurant. Together with Post Company and Dutton Architecture, he reinterpreted the Dutch influenced farm buildings of the Hudson Valley. Twenty eight dark timber cabins with simple pitched roofs sit among wild grasses, while the twelve room Farmhouse could easily pass for a country home inherited from a particularly tasteful relative. Inside, antique chairs, worn wooden tables, crisp white linens and wonderfully restrained bathrooms give the rooms an appealingly lived in character. Some cabins come with wood burning stoves and private decks, although the generous windows framing the Catskill Mountains may be their finest feature.

The name pays tribute to nineteenth century landscape painter George Inness, and the setting certainly does him justice. Across 220 acres, landscape designer Miranda Brooks has created a gentle dialogue between cultivated gardens, open meadows and the surrounding woodland. Deer wander through the grounds, and there are plenty of reasons to join them outdoors. A nine hole golf course designed by King Collins, tennis courts, swimming pools and walking trails make it surprisingly easy to fill a day. The handsome bathhouse, with its heated pool, sauna and steam room, offers a convincing alternative.

Somer's restaurant background becomes evident around dinnertime. The bar, with its marble counter, wooden stools and warm lighting, has the relaxed confidence of a favourite neighbourhood haunt. In the restaurant, Mediterranean influences meet Hudson Valley produce, with seasonal vegetables, homemade pasta and seafood on the menu. The cooking is approachable, the surroundings quietly sophisticated. You might spend the afternoon walking through the meadows and end it over oysters and a good bottle of wine. Both feel perfectly at home here.

What makes INNESS particularly appealing is this easy coexistence of country life and New York sophistication. The Farmhouse has a convivial atmosphere, while the cabins offer considerably more solitude. The estate is large enough to warrant a shuttle between its buildings, and the experience is decidedly more curated country retreat than rugged wilderness. That distinction matters. INNESS is a place for people who appreciate nature, but also rather enjoy beautiful furniture, a proper cocktail and knowing that dinner is taken care of.