In Viaggio - Claudio Melis

Born in Sardinia and shaped by kitchens across Europe, Melis opened In Viaggio inside Villa Irma, a stately residence from the days when Merano was one of the most fashionable spa destinations of the Austro Hungarian Empire. The dining room is understated and intimate. No grand gestures. No distractions. Just a handful of tables and a kitchen confident enough to let the food do the talking.

That food rarely follows the script. While many chefs in South Tyrol look inward for inspiration, Melis looks outward. Local trout might appear with shiso and citrus. Mountain lamb may share a plate with flavours borrowed from much further afield. Mushrooms, almonds and herring caviar somehow end up in the same bowl and make perfect sense. You quickly realise that geography matters less here than curiosity.

The restaurant’s name means “On a Journey”, which sounds dangerously close to a marketing slogan until the dishes start arriving. Then it becomes clear that the journey belongs to the chef himself. Years spent travelling, learning and collecting ideas reveal themselves throughout the menu, though never in a way that feels forced or theatrical.