Hotel Cipriani, Venice

About

Most hotels in Venice promise a view of the city. The Cipriani offers something better: the chance to leave it. Imagine an evening at Teatro La Fenice. The curtain falls, the audience disperses and within minutes you find yourself walking through a Venice that few visitors ever see. The souvenir shops are shuttered, the tour groups long gone. Footsteps echo beneath stone archways. A lone vaporetto glides through the darkness. Eventually you reach the waterfront where a small launch bearing the Cipriani crest is waiting. A few minutes later, Venice begins to recede into the night as the illuminated campanile and domes drift across the lagoon behind you. That crossing may be the finest part of staying at the Cipriani. Founded in 1958 by Giuseppe Cipriani, the man behind Harry's Bar, the hotel occupies a privileged corner of Giudecca. While much of Venice is defined by narrow streets and limited space, the Cipriani enjoys gardens, terraces and a remarkable sense of openness. Its famous saltwater pool remains one of the city's great luxuries, though regular guests often speak just as fondly of breakfast. Fresh mozzarella, blood orange juice, perfectly judged espresso and a front row seat to Venice waking up across the water make a compelling argument for lingering longer than planned. The rooms remain refreshingly loyal to their Venetian roots. Murano glass, soft colours and antique furnishings create an atmosphere that feels comfortably established rather than newly invented. Those seeking contemporary design may look elsewhere. Those who appreciate hotels with a strong sense of place will understand the appeal immediately. Among the hotel's many accommodations, the Dogaresa Suite stands out as the most memorable. Its terrace hangs above the lagoon with an uninterrupted view towards St Mark's Square, creating one of the most extraordinary private viewpoints in Venice. The Palladio Suite offers a quieter, more architectural interpretation of Venetian luxury, while the Fortuny Suite reflects the rich decorative traditions of the city through textiles and craftsmanship. All three feel distinctly Venetian, which is surprisingly rare in modern luxury hospitality. Part of the hotel now occupies the fifteenth century Palazzo Vendramin, adding another layer of history to the experience. Yet the Cipriani's enduring appeal has surprisingly little to do with age, celebrity guests or even luxury itself. Many great hotels become destinations. The Cipriani enhances one. It encourages guests to spend their days exploring Venice and rewards them with the most beautiful arrival and departure in the city. By the second or third crossing, many guests discover that they are looking forward to the boat ride as much as the destination.