Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll

About

In the remote interior of Iceland, along the rugged Kjölur route between Thingvellir and Akureyri, Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll feels like a modern expedition camp designed with unusual care. The hotel opened in 2023 and replaces the long serving mountain lodge that once attracted skiers and hikers to this geothermal wilderness. Architecture firm Basalt Architects chose a restrained language of timber, stone and dark metal so the buildings echo the volcanic slopes around them rather than compete with them. The setting is the real spectacle. Just beyond the rooms lies Hveradalir, a valley of steaming vents and ochre coloured hills where the ground quietly breathes sulphur and heat. After a day walking through this surreal landscape, guests return to warm interiors and a restaurant that treats Icelandic ingredients with respect. Arctic char, lamb and vegetables grown in geothermal greenhouses dominate the menu. What makes Highland Base remarkable is its balance. It offers comfort without diluting the sense of isolation. You are still deep in the highlands, only now with very good architecture, a thoughtful kitchen and the rare luxury of silence.