Gaggan

About

On Sukhumvit 31, Gaggan feels like Bangkok fine dining after a shot of adrenaline. Chef Gaggan Anand, a Kolkata born former rock drummer who trained at elBulli, built his reputation by dragging Indian cuisine into a louder, stranger, far more playful register. The current restaurant, back under the name Gaggan, seats guests at a 14 seat L shaped counter where up to 25 courses arrive in five acts, with shifting lights, music and just enough chaos to keep everyone alert.  What lands on the plate follows the same logic. Progressive Indian cooking is the core, though French, Thai and Japanese influences slip in freely. Courses may appear as emojis, guests may be invited to eat with their hands, and the room leans into the spectacle with neon, concrete columns, high ceilings and an intimate counter view of the action. It sounds like a stunt on paper. In practice, the whole thing works because Anand has flavour, rhythm and confidence to back it up. Bangkok has many places to eat brilliantly. Very few give dinner the pacing of a live performance.