Fisherman's Bastion

About

Budapest occasionally cheats. Fisherman’s Bastion looks like the sort of place that survived kings, invasions and a few dramatic sieges. In reality, it is surprisingly young. The structure was built between 1895 and 1902 as part of Hungary’s millennium celebrations, marking a thousand years since the arrival of the Magyar tribes. The city essentially gave itself a carefully designed memory and did a remarkably convincing job. You approach it through the streets of Buda and gradually the white towers begin appearing above the rooftops. Seven in total, each representing one of the Magyar tribes that founded Hungary. The galleries sweep around the hill beside Matthias Church, whose colourful Zsolnay tiled roof seems to have received slightly more attention than strictly necessary. Nobody complains. The name reaches further back in time. During the Middle Ages, the fishermen’s guild defended this section of the city walls, which explains the rather unexpected title. Today the role of protector has changed somewhat. People mainly defend their chosen photo spot. Yet the views are what interrupt conversations. Across the Danube, Parliament stretches along the riverbank with an almost theatrical confidence. Early morning feels entirely different from late afternoon. A few locals walk their dogs, photographers quietly set up tripods and the city wakes up beneath you. Later, the terraces become crowded and the illusion softens a little.