Eight Venezia - Palazzo Maria Formosa

Eight Venezia occupies Palazzo Maria Formosa on one of those Venetian squares that immediately make you walk slower. Campo Santa Maria Formosa sits between San Marco and Castello, close to the famous city, but with enough local life to save you from postcard fatigue. The church opposite gives the address its weight. Rebuilt from 1492 by Mauro Codussi, it belongs to that moment when Venice started flirting with the Renaissance while refusing to give up its taste for spectacle. The name Formosa refers, according to legend, to a vision of the Virgin Mary as beautiful. The campo also had its own yearly dose of theatre: the Doge came here to commemorate the rescue of twelve Venetian brides once abducted by pirates. Useful knowledge, should the dragon wallpaper in your room suddenly feel understated. Inside, Eight Venezia is bold, decorative and knowingly excessive. Striped headboards, lacquer red, petrol green panelling, chinoiserie, mirrors, Murano sparkle and patterned bathrooms make this a hotel for travellers who want Venice turned up, not toned down. At moments it stands very close to the border of good taste. That is also why it stays in the mind. A safer decorator would have made it prettier and less interesting. Food seems to play a supporting role: breakfast, a polished bar and refined local comfort rather than a restaurant you plan the day around. The real reason to stay is the palazzo, the campo, the mood, and the small thrill of sleeping somewhere that feels unmistakably, almost dangerously Venetian.