Central

At Central, the altitude of your dinner changes with almost every course. One moment belongs to the Pacific coast, the next to a dry valley, and eventually the kitchen takes you into the Andes or Amazon. The journey lasts around three hours. Happily, nobody has to leave the table.

The restaurant occupies a historic Barranco house given a contemporary second life by architect Rafael Freyre. Glass opens the dining room towards the garden, while stone, timber and handmade ceramics give it a quiet, tactile character. The food is considerably more adventurous. Virgilio Martínez and Pía León work closely with Mater, the research group led with Malena Martínez, whose team investigates ingredients and collaborates with communities across Peru. That work makes its way onto the menu in the form of unfamiliar roots, coastal plants, river fish and ingredients that would rarely find themselves in the same kitchen.

What is appealing is the absence of showmanship for its own sake. The presentation can be startling, but the origin of each ingredient is as important as its appearance. The drinks follow the same curiosity: alongside wine pairings are alcohol-free preparations made with flowers, roots and herbs. Guests who want to understand the work behind the meal can choose Central Immersion, which includes a visit to the experimental garden and creative spaces before the tasting.

Reserve well ahead and allow the full afternoon or evening. The set experience cannot accommodate several major dietary restrictions, including vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free diets or fish and seafood allergies. This is a meal best enjoyed on the kitchen's terms.