Caruso Nuovo Bistrot

About

Caruso Nuovo Bistrot has the rare Milan trick of feeling polished without becoming stiff. It sits inside the Grand Hotel et de Milan, just off Via Montenapoleone on Piazzetta Croce Rossa, with a veranda that gives the fashion district a civilised place to pause, inspect the room, and order very well. The current chapter began with a restyling by Dimorestudio and a new culinary direction led by Gennaro Esposito, with Francesco Potenza as executive chef.  What makes it interesting is the balance of Milan and Campania. Potenza and Esposito work with recognisable Italian classics rather than culinary theatre, so you get dishes such as risotto alla milanese, cotoletta, and a spaghettino al pomodoro del Vesuvio from Esposito’s selection. It reads like a menu written by adults with taste and self control, which in Milan can feel almost radical.  The room helps. Dimorestudio revived original features including columns, inlay and grit floors, then layered in green bamboo chandeliers, brass details, Art Deco patterns and a veranda with rattan furniture inspired by Portaluppi and Mongiardino. In other words, lunch here comes with a side order of design literacy.